Custom Dress Shirts FAQs

Shirting Fabric Labels

Our basic staple fabric for custom dress shirts is the 100 count, 2 Ply -100% Cotton shirting fabric from KB Custom Shirting Fabrics.

For a very elegant European fabric. We provide NELSON WADE’s collection of 120 & 140 count shirting fabric from Tessitura Monti shirting fabrics for Custom Dress Shirts and Custom Casual Shirts which includes a variety of weaves, colors and patterns for a luxurious Shirt. Sea Island Cotton Fabric by Tessitura Monti is Certified by the West Indian Sea Island Cotton Association.

As a Woman, can I get a Collar Blouse with French Cuffs made with the shirting fabric that is provide for Men?

Yes, absolutely! Any shirting fabric that we provide for Mens Custom Dress Shirts can also be used for Womens Custom Collar Blouse/Shirt with any of the shirting details to finish the Blouse/Shirt to your specific taste!

How do I go about ordering a custom shirt? Do I just order my size?

There is a few ways, that you can create the information for a custom dress shirt.

1. You can directly order online. Once that you have chosen a shirt fabric and have paid for the shirt order. You will be directed to our Custom Shirt Measurement and Details Specifications form. We will contact you by phone and discuss the measurements and details with you. We will offer design suggestions. If you have any additional unique design ideas, we will implement them into your custom shirt design.

2. You can send us a dress shirt that was custom made and we will take the measurements from that. We will then call you and discuss design and detail options, possible measurement changes with you.

3. You can call or send us your stock dress shirt size and we will call you and discuss were we need to take in or adjust the shirt design/size to your requirements.

How and what is shirting material made from?

Fine quality shirting fabric begins from cotton. Cotton that comes from various countries, from around the world. Such as Egypt, the Sea Islands, South and North America. We source out our fabric, from different fabric mills from around the world.

The raw cotton is spun into yarn and is then woven into fabric. At this point, the woven fabric subjected to various “finishing” processes for optimal appearance and suppleness.

Once, you notice the uniqueness between the fabrics…..it’s like a fine wine that comes from a specific grape varietal, their is different qualities for different tastes from that grape varietal.

Custom shirting fabric is the same way!

What is does it mean, when I see “2-ply 100…?

Our shirting fabrics are two-ply otherwise noted, meaning that two yarns have been twisted around one another to create a composite yarn for greater luxurious durability. The yarn will resists the normal tendency to shed or pill this way.

The yarn number, i.e..,100’s/120’s/140’s/160’s/170’s measures the thickness of each yarn. It is also a way to to measure the fabric quality.

The higher the yarn number, the finer the fabric is!

Our Custom Shirt Features

A. Single Needle Stitching for our custom shirt sleeves. Our Our sleeve connection to the shirt body has double row stitch. But only one row of stitching is visible for that finer, hand sewn custom tailored appearance.

B. Buttons. Extra Thick Real Mother of Pearl Buttons or regular durable plastic shirt buttons are available. Contrasting cross stitch thread color is another option. We provide additional buttons for longer shirt bodies.

C. Sleeve cuffs for our custom shirts are hand cut and hand turned. The fully finished two part placket with buttons and buttonhole or double button hole for French Cuffs.

D. Shirts Tails are always full in length, so that they don’t pop out.

E. Pockets for our custom shirts are all hand cut and hand matched to the fabric pattern.

F. Shirt Yoke is a two piece shirt yoke, that is top stitched at the front and back of shirt.

G. Collars. Our collars for custom shirts are hand cut individually designed to your personal taste.

Cotton Yarns Finish Styles

Click on the images below to see an enlarged image.

Poplins

Poplins is a plain cotton weave with a horizontal rib that is fine. This allows the weave to be a smooth surface, it is lightweight, strong and durable. It also is resistant to shrinkage and weave stretching.

Classic Poplins	End on End Poplin
Classic Poplin is light to wear. It looks clean with a smooth finish to the touch and feel.	End on End Poplin has a crosshatched look by using lighter and darker shade of same color.

Twills

Pima Twill	Royal Twill
The Pima Twill is one of the finest cotton yarn weaves. It is found in the finer fabrics. It is also easy to iron and has a smooth finish to the touch and feel of the fabric.	The Royal Twill is very Elegant! The pronounce diagonal twill weave enhances the weave pattern and color.
Herringbone Twill
The Classic Chevron patterned weave is usually woven with two colors to enhance the weave design. It has a silky finish and smooth to the touch and feel.

Oxfords

Oxfords have an basket style weave design. Oxfords are more durable weave and slightly heavier the Twills and Poplin fabrics.

Classic Oxford	Royal Oxford
Classic Oxford is the most traditional Oxford pattern. It is a dyed and undyed thread that is woven together and it is the heaviest of the Oxfords. It looks clean with a very durable finish to the touch and feel.	The Royal Oxford basket weave is more vibrant and deeper in color. It is the softest of the Oxfords in touch and feel.
Pinpoint Oxford	Pique Oxford
The Classic Pinpoint Oxford is the most durable. It has a flat finished weave. Maintenance is a minimum, because it does not wrinkle as much compared to other cotton weaves.	The Pique Oxford weave is a small raised tight box weave. It is usually white and a color.

Dobby

Dobby is a soft weave, with a variety of patterns.

Dobby	Super Dobby
Dobby comes in a variety of weave designs, such as French Dobby, Pique. French Dobby is a oxford basket weave that is very soft to the touch and feel.	Super Dobby is one of most popular shirting fabrics. It is very Silky, Soft and Luxurious to the touch and feel. It comes in a variety of weaves, such as Diagonal Twill, Herringbone, French Oxford.

We look forward to designing your custom designed shirts and suits. We appreciate our existing customer’s continued patronage.

You can contact us at NELSON WADE® for custom handmade tailored dress shirts, monogram shirts, silk neckties, shoes, cufflinks, made to measure suits.

Please send your queries and comments to the following ways;
Phone – USA Toll Free: 866.683.6895
International: 949.683.6895.
You can also send an email to the following address;
email: mail@nelsonwade.com or nelsonwade@hotmail.com